Showing posts with label Nikon COOLPIX. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nikon COOLPIX. Show all posts

Thursday, June 12, 2008

Many Nikon COOLPIX cameras have selectable picture modes

Many Nikon COOLPIX cameras have selectable picture modes, which Nikon has called "scene modes". All Coolpix cameras also have an "Auto" mode, which will select the camera settings automatically for the best picture under most circumstances; however, pictures may look better if the photographer manually selects the appropriate camera settings best suited to the conditions.

Nikon cameras with "Scene Modes" make this easy using a pre-programmed setting which are selectable via the camera's dial or menu (depending on the camera used). If pictures are going to be taken for any one of the scenarios below then choosing that "Scene Mode" will provide excellent results.

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Portrait

The main subject stands out clearly while background details are softened, this can give the image a sense of depth. By using a wide aperture (i.e. f/5.6) the camera will try to blur the background to make it less distracting and concentrating the viewer's attention to the main subject. The degree to which background is out of focus depends on the amount of light available.

Settings used:

Flash- auto any flash setting can be used, Shutter speeds- auto, Aperture -wide aperture, Focus-normal, some cameras allow manual focus point selection.

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Party / Indoor

This mode is designed for taking pictures at parties or generally in doors. While normal flash photography may result in the subject being correctly exposed the background will generally be under exposed (dark). Using the party mode the camera utilizes longer exposures (i.e. 1/30 second) to allow more ambient light from the room to be captured, improving the exposure of the background and giving an impression of the environment where the picture was taken. You can also use this setting to capture the effects of candlelight and other indoor background lighting. Note that the camera uses slower shutter speeds so some camera shake may occur. Steady the camera carefully to avoid movement.

Settings used:

Flash- on with red eye reduction, Shutter speeds - slower speed than normal are used, Aperture - auto, Focus - normal

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Beach/Snow

Vividly captures the brightness of such subjects as snowfields, beaches, or sunlight expanses of water. Photographing in these situations can be tricky as sand and snow can fool the camera into producing the wrong exposure. You may have seen holiday snaps of people skiing on what would appear to be pink/blue or grey snow, this is caused by the cameras exposure meter being tricked and giving the wrong exposure. Using the beach/snow scene mode the camera is able to compensate for these situations and produce the correct exposure.

Settings used:

Flash - auto, but any flash mode can be used, Shutter speeds- auto, Aperture -auto, Exposure compensation used (i.e. +1 exposure). Focus-normal

If your shooting a scene with predominant white (snow), you would dial in +2 EV since the meter will try to expose for 128 on the histogram. This would move the spike on the histogram from middle to roughly just before 255 - right of the histogram making the white look natural, but not blowing it. Of course, the amount of compensation required also depends on metering mode and the amount of bright white in your scene.

Tuesday, April 1, 2008

Cool Remote

http://vyskocil.free.fr/coolcom/

You need a: Palm PDA, a Palm serial cable, and a Coolpix serial cable. You also need a NULL modem and possible a gender changer, since regular NULL modem cable having one end Male connector and other end Female. What you really need is a NULL modem with both ends Male type. I bought NULL modem and a gender changer from Radio Shack; each costs more than $6.

After reading some posts about modification of USB cable to get a serial cable, I realized that I could modify the serial cable too. Basically, you just need to cut the connector open and switch positions of two cables (RD and TD are official names of the cables, which are connected to pin 2 and 3).

Actually you need to replace the connector with a new DB9 connector, which can be found at Radio Shack for a little over $3.

Detail Steps:

1. Cut open the serial connector side of Coolpix serial cable carefully, write down positions (connect to which pin) of each wire (wires are colored).

2. Cut or use a welder to disconnect the wires from original connector.

3. Weld the wires back to a new serial connector of solder connector type, remember switch the wires connect to pin 2 and pin 3 you write down in step 1

4. Use some silicon rubber glue/sealant as electric insulation and bonding.

Notes: Depends on the new connector you get, you may need to put a rubber or plastic tube to the serial wire at the end going into the connector, just to fill empty space there. Use black heat shrink tube to make it more professional.

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The Palm OS software is free, supports bulb and interval, and is available here: http://vyskocil.free.fr/coolcom/. The PDA buttons can be used to half-press, fully press (take the picture) and zoom in/out.

You will need the generic serial cable, either the Nikon SC-EW3, or its equivalent, made by Harbortronics: http://www.harbortronics.com/DigiSnap/SErialCAbleInfo.htm.

You'll also need a modem adapter (or cable) to match your PDA to the side of the SC-EW3 cable that would normally plug into your PC: the cable adapter includes the crossover functionality. A good source for those is: http://www.syncablesolutions.com

The total cost of this setup, assuming you already have a PDA (an "old" Palm III will do just fine) should be about $50, cheaper than the MC-EU1 or even the DigiSnap.

Disclaimer: I have no relationship with any of the vendors/products mentioned above.

PS: Once you have the SC-EW3 cable, you can also use it to attach your 990/880 to your PC and remap out those hot pixels, with the Cpixmap program found here (version 0.12 or later): http://e2500.narod.ru/ccd_defect_e.htm